The Fann mountains are the hidden gem of one of the world’s poorest countries — Tajikistan. Sunny climate, 16 surreal colorful mountain lakes and open-hearted locals make this area a remarkable, world-class destination, still waiting to be discovered.
Our 2 weeks trip includes 10 days of trekking and wild camping followed by 3 days of sightseeing in Samarkand and Bukhara, at the crossroads of ancient trade routes.
Am I fit enough for trekking in Tajikistan?
The total distance of this trekking trip is about 70 kilometers done over 9.5 days, including day hikes without packs. Yet unlike hut-to-hut tours common in Europe and Nepal, our itinerary involves wild camping next to tranquil turquoise mountain lakes of screaming beauty — yes, you can swim in them! Staying well off the grid enables a more intimate connection with nature. This also means no lodges, no showers and no maintained trails. We may spend days without seeing any other humans.
The average daily distance is 6-8km. The total elevation gain is over 5,000m, which makes the Fann mountains trek some 30% shorter than the iconic EBC trek in Nepal. It is slightly more technical though, due to some river crossings, loose scree, boulder fields, and some sections requiring sure-footedness.
The max altitude is 4,750m at Chimtarga pass — nearly as high as Mont Blanc! We cross this pass on the seventh day, after proper acclimatization. Overall, the trek is appropriate for experienced trekkers who love camping in the wild.
We meet early in the morning at Samarqand (SKD) airport, Uzbekistan. We check into our guesthouse and rest after the overnight flight. We then explore this ancient Silk Road city with its blue-domed mosques and madrasas. In the evening we gather together for a friendly dinner and briefing.
5.4km, gaining and dropping 380m. We sleep at 2,160m.
We leave anything that we won’t need during the trek at the hotel.
A private minibus takes us to the Tajik border in about 1 hour. We cross on foot without much hindrance then two comfy Toyota 4×4s take us to Artuch mountaineering basecamp at circa 2,100m a.s.l. — that takes about 3 hours with a lunch stop at Panjakent town, with a traditional lamb soup and pilaf!
Upon arrival at the basecamp, we pitch our tents on a meadow next to the basecamp building and head for a warm-up hike to Chukurak lake, the first one of 16 we will encounter throughout the itinerary!
11km, gaining 700m. We sleep at 2,830m.
In the morning the donkey driver loads our stuff on his donkeys. He would trek with us for the following five days.
After some candy-harassment by local children, we gain altitude on a well-beaten but dusty (this is a general characteristic of Tajikistan!) path. In 3-4 hours we found ourselves on a plateau with several screaming-turquoise Kulikalon lakes dominated by 5,000m snow-capped peaks.
We pitch our tents right on the shore of the largest lake and after a quick lunch, we hike around the lake without packs, approaching closer to the imposing 1.5km-tall Kulikalon wall! The beautiful twisted trees ubiquitous in the Fanns are ‘archa’ — the local kind of juniper.
8.5km, gaining 300m. We sleep at 2,990m.
We keep trekking easily trekking along the chain of emerald-green lakes — Bibijonat, Oshkul, Lesnoe, and Kulisieh — until we reach Dushakha lake.
It is perhaps one of my favorite campsites in the Fann Mts — on a flat grassy patch by a clear blue lake beneath an imposing 2km-tall north face of Mt. Mirali 5,106m. It is hard to resist swimming though most people only manage a few strokes through the ice-cold water!
7.5km, gaining 1000m and dropping 1100m. The highest point we reach is 3720m and we sleep at 2780m.
After breakfast, we take down our tents, load the donkeys and start climbing the 3,720m-tall Alaudin pass. As we reach the crest of the col, one of the highest peaks of the Fanns range raise in front of us — the 5,000-ers Chapdara, Bodhona, Zamok, and Ganza. Right at the foot of Mt. Chapdara we spot two irregular splashes of bright azure — Alaudin lakes, that is one vertical kilometer for us to drop.
Most likely we camp on the second smaller lake with its alien-looking twirls of intense blue and green mineral and algae deposits at the lake’s bottom beneath the crystal-clear waters. In the evening we may enjoy a campfire made of dry juniper branches.
6.5km, gaining 800m. We sleep at 3520m.
It is time to venture to high mountain terrain! We leave our cosy campsite at Alaudin lakes and trek up the valley for 5-6 hours until we reach Mutnie (‘Murky’) lakes surrounded by jagged peaks.
From this point we already can see the two giants of Mt Chimtarga 5,489m and Mt Energiya 5,120m.
3km, gaining 600m. We sleep at about 4100m
In the morning, while our camp is still in the shade, we observe the flaming sunrise at the two peaks of Mt Chimtarga 5,489m and Mt Energiya 5,120m.
Trekking involves crossing the lake over an artificial ’bridge’ of rocks and later on we traverse the glacier. As we reach the 4,100m camp — a barren spot with a few flat spots on a moraine ridge — we finally say goodbye to our donkeys and enjoy the sunset.
9.5km, gaining 700m and dropping 1,600m. The highest point we reach is 4,750m and we sleep at 3,150m.
Today we cross Chimtarga col at 4,750m a.s.l. squeezed between the tallest summit of the Fann mountains — peak Chimtarga 5,487m — and peak Energiya 5,120m. The latter is often ascended from the col by mountaineering expeditions and requires climbing 5 pitches of ice up to 45-50 degrees steep.
We start early at 6AM to minimise the risk of rockfall. Reaching the col at almost Mont Blanc’s height without pack donkeys is a tough exercise, besides the trail traverses scree slope so with every step up you slide down a little bit.
Descending from the col on the other side requires a certain degree of sure-footedness but no special gear is required. By the lunchtime, we finally descend to the valley floor of river Zindon which in the local language means ‘dungeon’ — an apt comparison due to the steep and shady walls of the gorge. The trail continues on through two impressive boulder fields. At the sunset, we finally reach the shores of Big Allo lake at 3,100m with near-vertical granite faces abruptly dropping into its azure waters — perhaps my favourite sight in the Fann mountains!
6.5km, gaining and dropping 300m without packs. We still sleep at 3,150m.
We finally deserved a full day’s rest at Big Allo aka ‘Echo’ lake, hands down one of my favourite places on Earth, with steep granite cliffs dropping abruptly to radiant azure waters, surreal twisted juniper figures on its shores, and jagged snowcapped peaks on the horizon.
The lake was formed as recently as 1916 as a consequence of a catastrophic landslide. The ensuing debris field still fills the lake’s northwestern side.
After the previous hard day, we have the luxury to wake up at 10AM, stretch our limbs, PLUNGE into the azure semi-opaque ice-cold waters and tan naked (optionally!) on our private little beach! Some of us may opt for an easy afternoon hike up another valley that involves some easy scrambling above the lake.
6.7km, gaining 250m and dropping 1,060m. We sleep at 2,340m.
Today we say goodbye to Big Allo — a tranquil mountain lake of extraordinary beauty. We traverse the natural dam of boulders that keeps the lake in place and for the next couple of hours, we descend further into the valley following a rough trail that crosses further landslides and moraine fields.
At some point river literally bursts from the ground and we follow its course, hopping across a few times, until we reach elongated Small Allo lake. We have lunch on the narrow coastline before plunging into the emerald waters — our final swim in the Fann Mts!
Our last campsite is the shade of a huge olive (or laurus?) tree, neatly tucked between the river and a massive bolder, right above a cascade that falls further down into the widening valley. We take in the panorama of layered mountains bathing in dramatic sunset light.
5.4km, gaining 140m and dropping 700m.
Trek from Small Allo lake to the pick up point. On the way we may be lucky to visit a local farmer’s house and get an insight of the harsh life of locals in the mountains. Jeep transfer back to the Uzbekistan border, then to Samarqand where we enjoy a proper dinner at a local kebab house!
Flight back home
Your guides
Andrew Golovachev, an IFMGA aspirant ski guide within the guides’ association of Kyrgyzstan, an avid alpine climber, and devoted adventure photographer.
Ran treks, climbs, ski tours and expeditions to Tajikistan Pamirs, Patagonia, Peru, Morocco, Nepal, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Siberia, Caucasus and Kamchatka. A full member of the British Alpine Club. Professional avalanche education: equivalent of Canadian Avalanche Association Level 1 certificate.
Visited over 40 countries, lived in the UK for four years. Certified first-aider.
Trekking with donkeys
Even though there is no teahouse trekking in Tajikistan yet, most of our gear and supplies are carried by pack donkeys for almost the entire uphill portion of the route. As a result, we get the freedom of wild camping, pitching our tents at tranquil spots of extraordinary beauty, and observing the Milky Way at night without any light pollution at all! Each donkey can carry up to 40kg and is normally shared between 3 participants so the remaining weight of your pack is around 7-10 kilos. The donkey driver, usually a teenager from a local shepherd’s family, is in charge of the animals.
Booking terms
Sounds exciting? It truly is! We love the place and would be happy to share it with you. Should you have any questions, please check out our FAQ section below. Alternatively, don’t hesitate to send us your inquiry using the contact form or WhatsApp.
Our groups are small, so we require financial commitment from the participants in the form of two deposits made via SEPA bank transfer or Paypal. The first deposit of $140 is paid to secure your place in the group. The second deposit of $360 is due three months before the trip and goes towards accommodation and transfer pre-payment. The remaining balance is paid in cash upon arrival.
Cancellation policy
If you need to cancel your trip 60 days or less before departure because you are prevented from travelling due to:
1) a government banning non-essential travel to the destination or imposing a quarantine for vaccinated upon arrival upon return from the destination country, or
2) a national or local lockdown
We will put your deposits in full towards a future trip with us, this year or the next year.
The above does not apply in the following cases:
– You or a family member is diagnosed with Covid and you are required to self-isolate, which prevents you from travelling.
– A close relative is diagnosed with Covid and you are required to care for them.
– You are denied boarding to your flight due to failing Covid checks.
– You are unable to join your trip due to not fully complying with the testing or vaccination requirements to enter the destination country.
We strongly recommend taking out a travel insurance with specific Covid-19 cancellation and curtailment provision which is now available from many reputable providers.
We also promise a 14-day risk-free booking window: you can cancel at any point within two weeks after you put down the first deposit. This buys you time to sort out vacation and flights, to bring in your friends, etc. and not have to worry about someone else taking your spot on the trip.
In case of cancellation of the trip by the participant due to any other personal circumstances any deposits made are NOT refunded. At our sole discretion we may put them towards your future trips with us.
The minimum group size for this trip is 4 participants plus the guide. Should there be less, the trip will be cancelled and all deposits made will be returned in full.
Enquire & book
Let us know any questions or concerns via the form below and we’ll get back to you within 24hrs!
Alternatively, you can just email us at hello@primalscapes.com
We will never email you any marketing materials without your further consent. Your info will only be used to respond to your question and will never be shared with third parties.
Accommodation
During cultural days in Samarkand and Bukhara, we stay at hand-picked family-run boutique guesthouses equivalent to a solid 3-star hotel, with traditional buffet breakfast included. If we’re fortunate, we may even be able to sleep in refurbished 19th-century interiors!
The standard is twin room, however if you’d rather not share the room with another participant, you can choose to pay an additional fee for single accommodation.
To give you a sense of what to expect, below are a few photos of the guesthouses.
Sightseeing in Samarkand and Bukhara
In addition to 10 days of trekking and wild camping in Tajikistan, this trip includes 3 days of sightseeing in Bukhara and Samarkand — the ancient Silk Road cities recognised as World Heritage by UNESCO.