• Kyrgyzstan, Tian Shan
    • Ski touring: yurts & horses
  • Georgia, Caucasus
    • Ski Touring: Towers of Svaneti
    • Trek: Svaneti’s Ridges & Towers
    • Climb: Kazbek 5,047m
  • Kazakhstan, Altai
    • Cat skiing: pow in the pines
    • Cat & tour: pow in the pines
  • Turkey, Kaçkar
    • Ski Touring: Big Mountain Lines
  • Tajikistan, Fanns
    • Trek: Peaks, Lakes & Minarets
  • Reviews & Media Mentions
  • About Us
  • HELLO@primalscapes.com
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  • Destinations
    • Column 1
      • Kyrgyzstan, Tian Shan
        • Yurt-based ski touring in Jyrgalan
    • Column 2
      • Georgia, Caucasus
        • Ski touring: Towers Of Svaneti
        • Trekking: Svaneti’s Secret Ridges
    • Column 3
      • Kazakhstan, Altai
        • Cat Skiing: Pow in the Pines
        • Cat & Tour: Pow in the Pines
    • Column 4
      • Turkey, Kaçkar
        • Ski Touring: Big Mountain Lines
    • Column 5
      • Tajikistan, Fanns
        • Trekking: Peaks, Lakes & Minarets
  • • Reviews & Media Mentions
  • • About Us
Primalscapes | Climb. Ski. Explore.
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Highlights
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Tajikistan's Fann Mts Trek

& Ancient Silk Road Cities

€1860

what’s included?

13-27 July 2025, spaces available

10 days trekking & wild camping in Tajikistan

4 days sightseeing Silk Road cities in Uzbekistan

14 alpine lakes of stunning, surreal colors

A true off-track adventure with wild camping

Assisted by pack donkeys and porters

4-5 hrs trekking per day on average

High point: 4,750m – nearly Mont Blanc!

Incredibly sunny climate!

Small teams of 8-10 participants

Visa-free or e-visa!

Starts and ends in Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Camping beside Kulikalon lake, Fanns, Tajikistan

The Fann mountains are the hidden gem of one of the world’s poorest countries — Tajikistan. Sunny climate, dramatic mountain faces, glittering emerald lakes, and open-hearted locals make this area a remarkable, world-class destination, still waiting to be discovered.

Our genuinely unique itinerary combines a 10-days trekking expedition in the Fann mountains of Tajikistan with 4 days of sightseeing in Samarkand and Bukhara, at the crossroads of the ancient trade routes.

Snow-capped peaks reflecting in Big Allo Lake

Camp in the wild beside a surreal turquoise lake and marvel at the reflections of mighty 5,000m snow-capped peaks. Or, maybe, take a deep breath and dive in?

Sitting by a campfire in the Fann mountains, Tajikistan

Strike up a meaningful conversation between your Western teammates and local Tajik porters. Once the campfire goes out, watch myriads of stars of the Milky Way, without any light pollution from big cities.

Tajik kids

Observe the traditional ways of local shepherd families. Share a gift with smiling kids and thankfully accept bread freshly baked in a traditional clay oven.

Overlooking the ancient Silk Road City of Khiva

After the trek, immerse into the vibrant swirl of oriental bazaars and blue-domed mosques in Samarkand and Bukhara — the ancient cities on the Silk Road, the capitals of Tamerlane’s empire, and objects of UNESCO cultural heritage. Sample mouth-watering Central Asian cuisine and aromatic melons. Then bring home authentic pottery, wooden carvings, metalwork or, perhaps, even a hand woven carpet!

Map of the itinerary
Introducing the Fann mountains

The Fann mountains, tucked in a safe north-west corner of Tajikistan well away from Afghanistan, are considered part of the Pamirs – one of the highest mountain ranges on the planet, along with the neighboring Karakoram and Himalayas, collectively known as the ‘Roof of the World’. Although lower, the Fanns are no less stunningly scenic. This range, home to hundreds of peaks, including several above 5,000m, was a playground for mountaineers behind the Iron Curtain during Soviet times. The highest point is Chimtarga Peak at 5,489m, and on Day 8 of the trek, we will cross a 4,750m col between Chimtarga and Energia Peak at 5,120m.

In the summer, the Fanns are home to a few Tajik shepherd families tending to small flocks of livestock. The mountains are marked by numerous azure and turquoise lakes, which seem to change color throughout the day as the sunlight shifts. While the water may be bone-chilling, many trekkers can’t resist taking a dip!

Leisure afternoon at Alaudin lake

The route forms a horseshoe, starting at the Artuch mountaineering camp. We hike along alpine lakes of striking beauty, crossing two high passes at 3,720m and 4,750m, and move into a different valley each day. After 10 days, jeeps will pick us up on a dirt track along the Archimaydan River.

On a typical day, we wake up around 6-7AM and take about two hours to have breakfast, take down our tents and prepare the stuff for the mules. Breakfast usually includes oats or other grains with berries or dry fruit and olive oil, along with cheese, bread, cookies or waffles, dark chocolate, tea and coffee.

We take advantage of the cooler morning temperatures to cover most of the day’s hiking, arriving at our campsites in time for a late lunch – all kinds of delicious soups with cheese, crisps or cookies, and fruit tea or berry drink. The afternoons are for relaxing, reading, hiking around the lakes, or taking a plunge. For dinner, we enjoy a piping hot main course, inspired by a different country’s cuisine each night. One example might be freeze-dried green beans and rice with chicken in cream sauce, or pasta with tomato & basil sauce and freeze-dried turkey.

    Included

    The trip is some seriously good value!

    INCLUDED ON THE TREK:
    Delicious world cuisine dishes crafted by your guide on a camping stove: that is all breakfasts, lunches and dinners whilst on the trek.

    Before the trek: lunch in Panjakent, Tajikistan, dinner and breakfast at Artuch basecamp.

    Pack animals for 5 days: 13kg allowance for personal luggage, including your tent. Bring your own duffel bag (if opting for a personal porter) or a big backpack.

    National park permits and camping fees.

    Medical kit.

    Access to emergency communication via satellite.

    INCLUDED IN THE CITIES:
    All transfers: cushioned air-conditioned minivans and 4×4s. Taxis to restaurants.

    Individually-timed airport transfers on arrival and departure.

    Early check-in fee in Samarkand in the likely case your flight arrives very early on Day 1.

    Train tickets from Samarkand to Bukhara and back, on modern air-conditioned high-speed trains.

    A private minivan for sightseeing in Samarkand (in Bukhara everything is within walking distance).

    All accommodation: Family-run boutique hotels in Samarkand (3 nights) and Bukhara (2 nights) on twin share basis with breakfasts.

    English-speaking guide for Samarkand & Bukhara cultural sites.

    Comprehensive museum admission fees in Samarkand and Bukhara.

    INCLUDED THROUGHOUT THE TRIP:
    All on-the-ground logistics and planning.

    Experienced (and charismatic) English-speaking tour leader/mountain guide.

    Lots of laughs and life-changing experiences!

    Not included

    International flights to/from Samarkand (SKD) or Tashkent (TAS).

    E-visa fees for Uzbekistan and/or Tajikistan, if needed for your nationality.

    Any pre-tour or post-tour accommodation.

    Single accommodation supplement: $260 per trip.

    All eating out in cities, a la carte: about $110-150 total. Wine and spirits. Souvenirs. Laundry.

    Any optional excursions not explicitly included into the main programme.

    Rental tents, sleeping bags, mat or other personal equipment. Some rental gear is available locally but it is of mediocre quality so we recommend bringing your own kit.

    Personal porters for your luggage on Day 8 and beyond. A porter can carry up to 20kg of your stuff. Opting for a personal porter also gives you an increased allowance of up to 20kg for donkey cargo.

    Snacks e.g. power bars on the trek.You should bring your own or shop locally for dried fruit/nuts.

    Compulsory travel and trekking insurance that covers ascents of up to 4,750 m, medical treatment, hospitalization and repatriation. We will require your insurance details prior to the trip.

    Tips for the tour leader and porters.

    Reviews
    • They definitely succeeded in making the trip enjoyable and in breaking any negative stereotypes – we loved Russia and have come away with a very good impression and a wish... read more to return. It was a fantastic trip and very well organised - thank you!

      Julie Pritchard Avatar Julie Pritchard
      November 3, 2020

      I went with Andrey to Kamchatka back on 2013. At that time PrimalScapes didn't even exist. He invited me to join his expedition with his fellow Russian friends (We had... read more met in Barcelona and we were sharing similar adventure interests). The core of the expedition consisted of 21 days hike/climbs in the wilderness without going to any human settlement. This needs to be planned: Route, Food, B plans, everything was taken into consideration for the expedition. He proved really good organizational skills and knowledge of the region. And besides that, being myself the only non-Russian of the expedition he always "took care of me" with empathy for not feeling isolated due to language barrier. This was 7 years ago, and we have been in contact since then. The level of professionalism he showed by then was impressive, I cannot imagine how can be nowadays after years as a professional mountain guide experience. Do not hesitate using his services, great guide, nice chap, impressive places.

      Xavi Tarafa Mercader Avatar Xavi Tarafa Mercader
      December 5, 2020
    • Our ski tour in Siberia was superbly organised. Your information before the trip was very clear and comprehensive. We knew exactly what to expect – and got it

      David McClelland Avatar David McClelland
      November 27, 2020

      We joined Andrey on a fantastic trip to the Fann Mountains in Tajikistan, pure nature and magnificent scenery! Andrey was super prepared and led us safely up and down numerous... read more passes and through some rough and icy cold rivers. Thank you for a very memorable trip, your planning and prep was excellent!

      Monika Steinlechner Avatar Monika Steinlechner
      November 11, 2020
    • We ski toured in Siberia with Andrey in December 2018. Was a fantastic trip; perfectly organised. Great food and great fun.

      Jamie Brown Avatar Jamie Brown
      November 3, 2020

      In 2018 I had the privilege of doing volcano trekking in Kamchatka with a group of experienced South Africans and Andrey, with the grand prize in mind of summiting Klyuchevskaya... read more Sopka.... It was an amazing trip, well organized, planned and lead by Andrey. The trek was filled with beautiful scenery and combined with Andrey’s good general knowledge of the area, fauna/flora and points of interest along the route it made for a memorable trip. Logistics around additional sight seeing excursions and visits to local eateries, museums, churches etc. was also very good. Once again thank you for a memorable trip...I will definitely be back for another adventure despite the possibility of running into the model A380 mosquitoes that took a rather large liking in me.

      Anton Durrant Avatar Anton Durrant
      November 27, 2020
    • I was impressed with your organization of the trip. The upfront information was accurate and relevant. More importantly everything ran smoothly. I was particularly impressed with your organization of the... read more logistics – getting the group to where they needed to be on time without any problems.

      Robert Cromarty Avatar Robert Cromarty
      November 3, 2020

      Superb unique experience to Siberia in 2019. We were well looked after and adapted to our needs and fitness levels. I look forward to going again, perhaps Kamchatka next year ?

      Adrian Parsons Avatar Adrian Parsons
      November 3, 2020
    • I joined Andrey now twice, once in Kamchatka and once in the Fann mountains. Each time everything worked out well. Andrey has done some excellent organizing and catering. We had... read more amazing trips that we will always remember. I never had anyone anywhere paying as much attention to detail as Andrey.

      Ulrike Kiefer Avatar Ulrike Kiefer
      November 4, 2020

      Superb unique experience to Siberia in 2019. We were well looked after and adapted to our needs and fitness levels. I look forward to going again, perhaps Kamchatka next year ?

      Adrian Parsons Avatar Adrian Parsons
      November 3, 2020
    Excellent
    Based on 26 reviews
    Google
    Emma Lloyd-Davies
    Emma Lloyd-Davies
    2025-05-02
    Andrey is a great guide. He was incredibly helpful with tips and advice re kit etc before we even met for our trip and on the tour he was clear in his communication, considerate of all group members and adaptable to changing snow conditions and group situations. I'd happily recommend him to anyone looking to do some ski touring. He's particularly knowledgeable about central Asia and Georgia.
    Fiona Hipkiss
    Fiona Hipkiss
    2025-04-07
    Giving you the punchline first, this was a fantastic trip in an incredible country. I’m always very careful selecting ski touring group trips with a focus on safety and quality of guiding. I’m pleased to say that Andrey has a sensible risk tolerance and looks after his group extremely well, while also of course making sure that everyone is having a good time. It’s a hard balance to strike. I respect his ability to do so. This is my first time skiing in a country that isn’t an obvious ski destination. I love that ski touring can be used to explore new cultures and remote regions. My particular highlight was staying in Ushguli, a UNESCO Heritage site, which felt like a huge privilege to experience before inevitable change comes its way. The mountains there are Alpine with the most incredible view to the mountain “wall” on the Russian border. If you’re looking for the absolute best snow and the deepest powder this trip is probably not for you but for adventure and cultural experience it is an absolute winner.
    Catherine havard
    Catherine havard
    2025-04-02
    Andre not only took good care of us in the mountains, he also shared his passion and knowledge of the culture and food and his recommendations were excellent. A great trip which was well organised. Thank you!
    Simon Baxter
    Simon Baxter
    2025-03-23
    Skied with Andrey in Ridder. Long way to go from UK but epic snow made it very worthwhile. Excellent local knowledge for accommodation and eating. Get there soon before everyone makes the trip. Thank you Andrey and the team from Primal Scapes.
    Christoph Keimel
    Christoph Keimel
    2025-02-23
    I just got back from a great trip to Kazakhstan with Andrej. It was perfectly organized, the food was great and the snow was spectacular!
    Grant Fletcher
    Grant Fletcher
    2025-02-19
    Have just returned from an excellent trip in Kazakhstan, Andrey is a very competent and organised guide who I highly recommend. He was focused on delivering the best possible experience for his customers, and despite my mis-behaviour he was at all times professional and friendly. Thank you Andrey.
    hewli123
    hewli123
    2025-02-17
    I spent a fantastic month ski touring with Andrey in Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan in 2025. Andrey and his local guides led us to some great snow and always paid particular attention to group safety and avalanche risk assessment. Logistics for the trip were very well organised. We stayed in a mixture of guest houses, yurts and log cabins, eating local food which added to the overall adventure. I look forward to joining him on another trip.
    Jessika Ziegler
    Jessika Ziegler
    2024-08-20
    It was a great trip. In German we would say: "It was a well-rounded affair". Thanks Andrew
    Luna Ziegler
    Luna Ziegler
    2024-08-12
    We went with Andrew on a hikking trip in the Fan mountains in Tadschikistan. The scenery and the whole trip was amazing. Andrew was such a perfect guide, he spoiled us every day with amazing food, wonderful camping spots and it was so amazing that you can feel that not only the people who booked the trip were enjoying it also himself. he is living this adventure live at its fullest. we can only recommend you to go on an adventure with him!! thanks a lot for that time we will never forget
    2022 trip report
    Our media mentions
    DAY 1: Arrival in Samarkand, Uzbekistan. Sightseeing. Team briefing.

    You will most likely arrive in Samarkand, Uzbekistan, on a Turkish Airlines flight from Istanbul. These flights typically land early in the morning, around 4 AM, but don’t worry—we’ve got you covered. We provide an airport transfer timed to your flight and arrange early check-in at the hotel. A driver will greet you with a name board just outside the airport and take you to our hotel in about 20 minutes. You’ll have immediate access to your room, allowing you to get some refreshing sleep before our city tour begins at 2 PM, timed to avoid the midday heat.

    Just before the tour, the tour leader will do a quick check of your trekking gear to ensure everything is in order. If anything needs to be rented, there will still be time to arrange it.

    One of Samarkand’s best city guides speaking perfect English will show you the city’s highlights, including Guri Amir (mausoleum of Tamerlane), Bibi-Khanym mosque, Shah-i-Zinda with its stunning blue Persian domes, and of course, the magnificent Registan complex. An air-conditioned minivan will be at our disposal for quick transfer between sites, and all admission fees are included.

    In the evening, we’ll dine out together, and the tour leadrer will give a briefing on the rest of the trip.

    DAY 2: Crossing into Tajikistan. Transfer to Artuch basecamp.

    Distance: 5.4km, duration: 2hrs.
    Elevation gain/drop: 380m, camp altitude: 2,160m.

    In the morning we stash anything unnecessary on the trek with our hotel. After breakfast, we load a private minivan which takes us to the border crossing point with Tajikistan in about 1 hour. The crossing is usually trouble-free and you will be required to show your passports and Uzbek/Tajik visas, in case they are required for your nationality. We cross on foot which means we will need to carry all our luggage, including the heavy duffel bags with food rations, for about 800m – that is where the teamwork starts!

    On the other side, we are met by comfortable air-conditioned Toyota 4x4s. Drive time to the nearest town on the Tajik side – Panjakent – is about 30-40 minutes. The town boasts an archaeological site and a colourful, energetic bazaar. We will stop for lunch at a local restaurant serving traditional Tajik food such as hearty lamb soup and pilaf (flavorful rice dish with meat).

    We then drive into the mountains for about 3 hours stopping en route to enjoy the tranquility of the mausoleum of Rudaki – a cherished Persian poet of the Middle Ages who was born in a nearby village.

    The main gateway to the Fanns is Artuch – a trekking and mountaineering lodge and a campsite located at 2,160m at the foothills of the mountains amidst juniper woods. The place was founded in 1971 as a base camp for Soviet mountaineering expeditions in this region of Tajikistan and it is here that we begin our trekking adventure.

    Once we pitch our tents on a grassy meadow, we set out for a warm-up trek up to the nearest lake Chukurak which usually takes about two hours roundtrip and gives us an extra opportunity to check our gear and bag the first lake in our collection of 14! We share a hearty dinner at Artuch lodge.

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    DAY 3: Trekking to Kulikalon lake.

    Distance: 11km, duration: 4-4.5hrs.
    Elevation gain: 700m, camp altitude: 2,840m.

    After breakfast, we meet our team of donkeys and their handlers – they will follow our trail for the next five days. You can leave up to 13kg for donkeys to carry and that allowance includes your tent. Note that during the day you will not have access to the items that you left with donkeys so you will need to carry the essential items like water, snacks and extra layers in your daypack.

    After some candy-harassment by local children, we gain altitude on a well-trodden trail up the Urech river through juniper groves coming over two giant scree dams that filter the water coming from Kulikalon lakes. Once the track levels out, we find ourselves standing in awe of the glittering emerald Kulikalon lake. We pitch our tents on a cozy narrow peninsula protruding well into the lake – right in front of the snow-capped peaks of Mirali (5,120m), Maria, Rudaki, and Adamtash, known together as the Kulikalon Wall, rising steeply on the far side of the lake for almost 2,000 vertical meters!

    After lunch, we set off for an easy hike around the lake through the beautifully twisted junipers known locally as ‘archa’. In the evening the guide will cook delicious dinner for you, starting our culinary journey around the globe!

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    DAY 4: Easy trekking to Dushakha lake, by the north face of Mt Mirali.

    Distance: 5km, duration: 3hrs.
    Elevation gain: 270m, camp altitude: 2,990m.

    After breakfast, we continue trekking easily along the chain of emerald-green lakes — Bibijonat, Oshkul, Lesnoe, and Kulisieh — until we reach Dushakha lake.

    This is arguably one of the most breathtaking camping spots in the Fann Mountains. We set up camp on a flat, grassy patch beside a clear blue lake and a stream, all under the towering 2,000-meter north face of Mt. Mirali 5,120m. The crystal-clear water is inviting to take a dip though most can only manage a few strokes!

    Our team watching sunrise at the 2km tall Mirali wall
    DAY 5: Crossing Alaudin pass 3,720m

    Distance: 8km, duration: 5-5.5hrs.
    Elevation gain: 850m, drop: 1,100m, camp altitude: 2,800m (via 3,860m)

    After breakfast, we take down our tents, load the donkeys and start climbing the 3,720m-tall Alaudin pass. As we reach the crest of the col, one of the highest peaks of the Fanns range raise in front of us — the 5,000-ers Chapdara, Bodhona, Zamok, and Ganza. Right at the foot of Mt. Chapdara we spot two irregular splashes of bright azure — Alaudin lakes, that is one vertical kilometer for us to drop.

    Most likely we camp on the second smaller lake with its alien-looking twirls of intense blue and green mineral and algae deposits at the lake’s bottom beneath the crystal-clear waters. In the evening we may enjoy a campfire made of dry juniper branches.

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    DAY 6: Trekking to Mutnye lakes.

    Distance: 6.5km, duration: 4-4.5hrs.
    Elevation gain: 800m, camp altitude: 3,520m

    It is time to venture to high mountain terrain! We leave our cosy campsite at Alaudin lakes and trek up the valley for 5-6 hours until we reach Mutnie (‘Murky’) lakes surrounded by jagged peaks.

    From this point we already can see the two giants of Mt Chimtarga 5,489m and Mt Energiya 5,120m.

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    DAY 7: Trekking to 4,100m high camp

    Distance: 3km, duration: 3hrs.
    Elevation gain: 600m, camp altitude: 4,100m

    In the morning, while our camp is still in the shade, we observe the flaming sunrise at the two peaks of Mt Chimtarga 5,489m and Mt Energiya 5,120m.

    Trekking involves crossing the lake over an artificial ’bridge’ of rocks and later on we traverse the glacier. As we reach the 4,100m camp — a barren spot with a few flat spots on a moraine ridge — we finally say goodbye to our donkeys and enjoy the sunset.

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    DAY 8: Cross Chimtarga pass 4,750m and descend to Big Allo lake.

    Distance: 11.5km, duration: 8-9hrs.
    Elevation gain: 700m, drop: 1,600m, camp altitude: 3,150m (via 4,750m)

    Today we cross Chimtarga col at 4,750m a.s.l. squeezed between the tallest summit of the Fann mountains — peak Chimtarga 5,487m — and peak Energiya 5,120m. The latter is often ascended from the col by mountaineering expeditions and requires climbing 5 pitches of ice up to 45-50 degrees steep.

    We start early at 6AM to minimise the risk of rockfall. Reaching the col at almost Mont Blanc’s height without pack donkeys is a tough exercise, besides the trail traverses scree slope so with every step up you slide down a little bit.

    Descending from the col on the other side requires a certain degree of sure-footedness but no special gear is required. By the lunchtime, we finally descend to the valley floor of river Zindon which in the local language means ‘dungeon’ — an apt comparison due to the steep and shady walls of the gorge. The trail continues on through two impressive boulder fields. At the sunset, we finally reach the shores of Big Allo lake at 3,100m with near-vertical granite faces abruptly dropping into its azure waters — perhaps my favourite sight in the Fann mountains!

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    DAY 9: Rest day at Big Allo lake.

    3 hrs of optional day hiking.
    Camp altitude: 3,150m

    We finally deserved a full day’s rest at Big Allo aka ‘Echo’ lake, hands down one of my favourite places on Earth, with steep granite cliffs dropping abruptly to radiant azure waters, surreal twisted juniper figures on its shores, and jagged snowcapped peaks on the horizon.

    The lake was formed as recently as 1916 as a consequence of a catastrophic landslide. The ensuing debris field still fills the lake’s northwestern side.

    After the previous hard day, we have the luxury to wake up at 10AM, stretch our limbs, PLUNGE into the azure semi-opaque ice-cold waters and tan naked (optionally!) on our private little beach! Some of us may opt for an easy afternoon hike up another valley that involves some easy scrambling above the lake.

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    Snow-capped peaks reflecting in Big Allo Lake
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    DAY 10: Trekking to Small Allo lake.

    Distance: 7km, duration: 3-4hrs.
    Elevation drop: 850m, camp altitude: 2,350m

    Today we say goodbye to Big Allo — a tranquil mountain lake of extraordinary beauty. We traverse the natural dam of boulders that keeps the lake in place and for the next couple of hours, we descend further into the valley following a rough trail that crosses further landslides and moraine fields.

    At some point river literally bursts from the ground and we follow its course, hopping across a few times, until we reach elongated Small Allo lake. We have lunch on the narrow coastline before plunging into the emerald waters — our final swim in the Fann Mts!

    Our last campsite is the shade of a huge olive (or laurus?) tree, neatly tucked between the river and a massive bolder, right above a cascade that falls further down into the widening valley. We take in the panorama of layered mountains bathing in dramatic sunset light.

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    DAY 11: Trekking to the road. Transfer to Uzbekistan border and to Samarkand.

    5.4km, gaining 140m and dropping 700m.

    Trek from Small Allo lake to the pick up point. On the way we may be lucky to visit a local farmer’s house and get an insight of the harsh life of locals in the mountains. Jeep transfer back to the Uzbekistan border, then to Samarqand where we enjoy a proper dinner at a local kebab house!

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    DAY 12: Train to Bukhara (1.5hrs) and guided sightseeing.

    We stash all our trekking gear at the Samarkand hotel as we will be coming back here later. Taxis take us to the train station where we board a comfortable bullet train that whisks us to Bukhara – another ancient city on the Silk Road, which has a completely different vibe from Samarkand since there was much less Soviet influence here. The streets are narrower, most of the buildings are just 1-2 floors and the city center is very much walkable, with streets full of artisan shops.

    We check into a boutique family-run hotel within a renovated 19th-century Jewish house, providing a unique and authentic lodging experience.

    An English-speaking local city guide will take us to the most important historical sites, sharing insights into local history, culture and present life.

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    DAY 13: Full day sightseeing in Bukhara.

    Today is the second day of guided sightseeing in Bukhara and we stay at the same hotel.

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    DAY 14: Shopping for souvenirs and afternoon train back to Samarkand.

    In the first half of the day, we have time to finalise our souvenir deals before hopping on a high-speed train back to Samarkand. There we share a farewell dinner at a rooftop restaurant with a view of the beautifully illuminated Registan complex.

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    DAY 15: Morning flight back home.

    Flight back home

    TRIP EXTENSION: THE HIDDEN GEM OF KHIVA

    The base itinerary includes four days of sightseeing in Samarkand and Bukhara, but why stop there? Enhance your adventure with a two-day side trip to Khiva, Uzbekistan’s third ancient city on the Silk Road, far off the beaten path.

    Take an overnight sleeper train across the Kyzylkum Desert to reach this hidden gem, where 1,500 years of history await you, impeccably well preserved. Explore clay city walls, climb turquoise minarets, and haggle in bustling artisans’ quarters. Khiva’s highlight is the inner fortress of Itchan Kala – a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a living museum, with over 50 historic monuments. One of them is Djuma Mosque, renowned for its forest of 213 intricately carved wooden pillars, creating a serene, almost mystical atmosphere.

    A hand-carved picture frame: a souvenir from Uzbekistan
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    This extension includes a train ticket from Bukhara to Khiva, hotel accommodation in Khiva’s boutique hotel inside a renovated medieval madrasah, Khiva airport transfer and a return domestic flight straight to Tashkent, and a local guide for the entire two-day experience. Contact us for pricing details.

    GEAR FOR TREKKING IN TAJIKISTAN

    Your packing list will differ from more typical ‘teahouse’ treks. Gear rental options are scarce, and even basic items like sunscreen are hard to find once you’re in Tajikistan. Here are some essential items you’ll need to bring:

    – Mug, spoon, bowl. for all your meals

    – Trekking mat and sleeping bag. If you’re going to rent a tent from us, please note that it does not include a sleeping bag or mat.

    – A large backpack – to fit your tent and sleeping bag during the 4 days without pack donkeys.

    – TWO trekking poles. There are technical sections during the trek that require balance and sure-footedness so we require every participant to carry TWO trekking poles.

    – Water treatment. The water in the lakes needs to be treated. We highly recommend Chlorine Dioxide tablets, like Katadyn Micropur, as both bacteria and viruses can be present. Filters alone may not suffice.

    – Trekking Boots: Sneakers are unsuitable for this trek, as we’ll be traversing scree slopes. You can bring both sneakers and boots, but boots are a must.

    – Energy bars, for a quick snack on the trail.

    – European power adaptor. Sunscreen.

    A full packing list will be provided well in advance of the trip.

    Pack donkeys make our trek way more enjoyable!

    Accommodation in Uzbekistan

    During cultural days in Samarkand and Bukhara, we stay at hand-picked family-run boutique guesthouses, , offering the charm and comfort of a solid 3-star hotel. In Bukhara, we even get to sleep in beautifully refurbished 19th-century interiors! A traditional buffet breakfast is included.

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    Your tour leader

    Andrew Golovachev, an IFMGA aspirant ski guide within the guides’ association of Kyrgyzstan, an avid alpine climber, and devoted adventure photographer.

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    Ran treks, climbs, ski tours and expeditions to Tajikistan Pamirs, Patagonia, Peru, Morocco, Nepal, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Siberia, Caucasus and Kamchatka. A full member of the British Alpine Club. Professional avalanche education: equivalent of Canadian Avalanche Association Level 1 certificate.

    Visited over 40 countries, lived in the UK for four years. Certified first-aider.

    WHY TRAVEL TO TAJIKISTAN WITH US?

    Safety is the cornerstone: We are in touch with our local contacts on any potential security issues in the country. Our trips are backed by emergency satellite communication whenever we venture off the grid. Being certified first aiders, our guides carry extensive first aid kits and have alternative route plans for any unexpected scenarios.

    Personalized pre-trip support: Every client who books with us gets one-on-one trip preparation phone call so that you are fully ready for your trip of a lifetime without taking much time from your daily duties. We are chatty and open to questions the moment you get in touch with us.

    Fair price: European travel agencies often charge hefty premiums while simply reselling trips run by local guides. By booking with us, you receive top-tier service, as confirmed by our excellent reviews, while ensuring your money goes straight to the trip organizers. We take pride in what we offer and never cut corners on our tours. There are no hidden costs, and we are upfront about any extras you might incur.

    We love good food: The rich and healthy meals we cook on the trek got glowing reviews from our guests and are better than you expect. We accommodate any meal preferences or intolerances.

    The unique trekking itinerary takes you over a 4,750m high pass, offering panoramic views that valley hikers on other tours miss. We also build in rest days, allowing you to fully immerse yourself in the most dramatic landscapes. Plus, unlike others, we include four sightseeing days to make your journey to Central Asia truly worthwhile.

    Small groups of 8-10: we avoid the circus of mass tourism, where large groups of strangers march along with hordes of support staff. Instead, we craft our trips like specialty coffee – with small teams and meticulous attention to every detail, creating meaningful adventures of a lifetime that forge lasting friendships.

    AM I FIT ENOUGH FOR TREKKING IN THE FANN MTS, TAJIKISTAN?

    Most likely, yes! 🙂 Over the years, our trekking itinerary has been successfully completed by participants aged 24 to 72. Originally based on a route of an unsupported trekking expedition with friends, we’ve made it far more accessible by smartly utilizing pack donkeys and porters.

    Physically, the trek is not demanding: the average hiking time is about 4 hours per day, covering 6-8 kilometers and gaining around 300-700 vertical meters on rough trails. There’s just one particularly tough day when we ascend 700 meters and descend about 1,600 meters on steep scree with some exposed sections. The guide will assist the least confident participants, using a short rope if necessary.

    Don’t worry about slowing the group down if your pace is slower. A donkey handler or porter always follows behind, and the trail is usually obvious. When it’s not, the guide will wait for everyone to catch up.

    Up until Day 8, while we are assisted by pack donkeys, you will be hiking with a small daypack with essentials like water, snacks, sunscreen, and extra clothing. After that, if you are fit, you can continue carrying your tent, sleeping bag and other gear over the pass and for the remaining 4 days, mostly downhill. Alternatively, you can hire a personal porter who will carry up to 20kg of your stuff. You can also share a porter and the associated costs with another participant.

    Watching the sunset at High camp at 4100m before Chimtarga pass

    The highest point of the trek is 4,750m – nearly as high as Mont Blanc – but in our experience, nobody has issues with the altitude, as we gain elevation gradually over several days, allowing plenty of time to acclimatize. The total distance of the trek is about 70km, much shorter than the Tour du Mont Blanc.

    Yet trekking in Tajikistan is a unique experience, quite different from the Everest Basecamp or mainstream treks in the Alps. The Fann Mountains remain wonderfully untouched, with no lodges or pre-established tent camps, allowing us to truly immerse ourselves in the wilderness for 10 days. Staying well off the grid enables a more intimate connection with nature. We may go days without seeing any other humans. But this also means no lodges, no maintained trails and no showers – the latter being the real challenge for most participants!

    If you have any doubts about your fitness for the trek, please get in touch and share your trekking background.

    Booking terms

    Sounds exciting? It truly is! We love the place and would be happy to share it with you. Should you have any questions, please check out our FAQ section below. Alternatively, don’t hesitate to send us your inquiry using the contact form or WhatsApp.

    We require financial commitment from the participants in a form of 20% deposit paid via SEPA bank transfer or Paypal/card. The remaining balance is paid in cash or wire transfer upon arrival.

    Cancellation policy

    We promise a 14-day risk-free booking window: you can cancel at any point within two weeks after you put down the first deposit. This buys you time to sort out vacation and flights, to bring in your friends, etc. and not have to worry about someone else taking your spot on the trip.

    In case of cancellation of the trip by the participant due to any other personal circumstances any deposits made are NOT refunded. At our sole discretion we may put them towards your future trips with us.

    See Full Terms and Conditions

    By booking with us you fully agree to the following:

    1) You have sufficient experience for the trekking/camping, skiing or climbing trip that you are joining. If joining a self-contained trek, you understand that you will need to carry your personal belongings as well as your share of food rations and group equipment. Porters are available at extra cost. By joining a ski trip, you confirm that you can safely and comfortably ski ‘black’ runs, have already participated in off-piste skiing trips and feel confident about the difficulty level stated in the itinerary description.

    2) You will arrange suitable insurance that covers helicopter rescue, medical treatment, hospitalization, repatriation, ascents (up to 3,000 m for the Kamchatka trekking, 2,200 m for the Ergaki trekking, 4,750 m for the Fanns trekking, 5,642 m for the Elbrus or 5,047 m for the Kazbek) and off-piste skiing & ski touring (for our ski programs). The Austrian Alpine Club member insurance is sufficient – please provide your actual membership number if you are a member.

    3) You will apply for the Russian visa yourself at your local embassy or via a visa centre. Normally, it is a trouble-free process and visas are issued in 5-10 working days. We will provide an invitation letter at no extra cost.

    4) The guide and the organisers reserve the right to change the itinerary at any time due to unforeseen objective threats, such as volcanic eruptions, floods, adverse weather, snowpack condition or based on the guide’s subjective judgement of the team’s condition and fitness.

    6) You fully understand the hazards of trekking, skiing or climbing in the wilderness with regards to general health, changeable weather conditions, snow avalanches, crossing streams, walking over exposed terrain and encounters with wild animals. In case of an accident, it may take a search & rescue party several days to reach the most remote sections of our route. Even though the guide normally carries a satellite communicator, helicopter evacuation is never guaranteed.

    You accept all risks of injury to you or death which may occur during the trek, climb or ski tour with us. For yourself, heirs, executors, administrators, assignees and personal representatives, you forever waive and release all rights and claims for damages, judgements and costs which you may have against the guide, the organisers, their agents and assignees.

    7) The guide and the organizers cannot accept liability for any consequences of force majeure, weather conditions, fire, civil or military disturbance, criminal activity or mechanical breakdown.

    In case of any force majeure circumstances that prevent us from running the trip, such as illness of the guide, we will do our best to make alternative arrangements that may involve a change of the itinerary and/or the organizer. Should that attempt fail, any deposits made will be refunded in full.

    8) You grant full permission to the organisers to use their photographs and/or video recordings with the participants for any publicity and promotional purposes. We warrant that no material of a controversial nature that might damage your reputation will be used.

    9) The sea trip in the Kamchatka trekking trip may be shortened or even cancelled in case of seriously bad weather. In the latter case, the cost of the trip will be reimbursed. Seasickness is not an excuse is rarely an issue and can be alleviated by medications available at the city pharmacies.

    10) For the Kamchatka sail-to-ski trip, the days on the boat may be shortened or even cancelled in case of seriously bad weather. In that case we will make alternative arrangements, such as snowmobile-supported ski touring in a different area of the peninsula. We also will refund any difference between the cost of the cancelled sailing itinerary and the alternative arrangements.

    11) All indicated distances are approximate. Any mismatch with the actual daily mileage does not authorize participants to grumble at dinner 🙂

    The minimum group size for this trip is 4 participants plus the guide. Should there be less, the trip will be cancelled and all deposits made will be returned in full.

    Start Your Journey

    Got a question or ready to plan your adventure? Drop us a line using the form below — we’ll reply within 24 hours!

    Prefer email? Reach out at hello@primalscapes.com

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    ...or Chat in WhatsApp!

    Sightseeing in Samarkand and Bukhara

    In addition to 10 days of trekking and wild camping in Tajikistan, this trip includes 3 days of sightseeing in Bukhara and Samarkand — the ancient Silk Road cities recognised as World Heritage by UNESCO.

    Sights of Bukhara
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    Sights of Samarkand
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    Frequently Asked Questions

    Is Tajikistan safe to visit?

    The Fanns — the mountain range where we will be trekking — are located in a very quiet corner of Tajikistan, well away from the busy capital of Dushanbe and DAYS away from the border with Afghanistan. We monitor the security situation on the spot through our local contacts.

    During the Soviet era, the Fann mountains were frequented by mountaineers who stayed at two basecamps, Artuch and Alaudin, which are still convenient logistical centres today. Independent backpackers from European countries often visit the Fanns and locals are friendly towards tourists.

    Both Tajikistan and Uzbekistan are Islamic countries. It is important to remain courteous to locals and respect Muslim customs. Female visitors should dress conservatively in villages. It is a good idea to bring small souvenirs for shepherd families and candies for kids. You will be rewarded with home-baked bread and yogurt!

    I’m a vegetarian. Will I survive the trek?

    I prepare trek meals using various cereals and high-quality freeze-dried meats, veggies and berries. In normal life, I minimize consumption of meat so it is easy for me to cater for vegetarians. I take into account any dietary allergies or intolerances provided you let me know in advance.

    Breakfast typically consists of oatmeal with locally-sourced sun-dried fruits — such as prunes, cheese, savour biscuits or naan bread, tea or coffee. One example of a non-typical breakfast is millet with pumpkin and raisins!

    For lunch on the trek we typically have different soups, for example, borscht, peas or lentils, served with crisps, fried chickpeas and cheese. I also love to offer refreshing drinks made with freeze-dried berries such as cranberries, blackcurrants or lyngenberries.

    On certain days we may choose to skip lunch, for example, because of difficulties of finding water and/or a flat and shady space. In that case, we will have our soups in the evening, prior to the main course such as chicken tikka masala, Georgian-style baked eggplants with paprika or lentil stew with vegetables. There are also herbal teas with local treats such as tahini halva, gingerbread or nuts with honey among others.

    I do NOT provide snacks on the trek. You can bring your favourite protein bars with you or buy local nuts and sun-dried fruits before the trek!

    What about water sources on the trek?

    Even though there are numerous lakes and creeks in the Fann mountains, all water below the snowline must be treated due to grazing livestock. The guide will provide chlorine dioxide tablets or you can use your own.

    Can I leave my luggage in Samarkand?

    Absolutely! You can leave your dresses and high heels in our hotel in Samarkand. We are coming back there after the trek. What’s more, you can stash your trekking gear here while sightseeing in Bukhara!

    What is the best season to do the trek?

    Trekking in Tajikistan’s Fann mountains is usually done during the summer season between mid-June and early September. You are less likely to meet other hikers during the last week of August and into early September. It is well possible that we will only encounter two or three other groups during the entire trek!

    What is the weather like on the trek?

    Fann mountains, Tajikistan, are famous for sunny weather! Even though conditions have somewhat deteriorated over decades due to the climate change, you can still expect no more than a couple of short showers during the entire trek — and plenty of sun! The temperature during the daytime stays at comfortable +15-20 centigrade at the lowest sections of the trek, while at the highest campgrounds it can drop to subzero at night.

    What are my flight options?

    The Fann mountains are located in the north-west corner of Tajikistan just across the border from Uzbekistan’s UNESCO heritage towns of Samarkand and Bukhara. Hence the trip assumes a flight into Uzbekistan.

    There are two options:
    1) Fly Turkish Airlines to Samarkand via Istanbul.

    2) Fly direct to Uzbekistan’s capital of Tashkent by Uzbek airlines. Then take a 2.5 hours high-speed train to Samarkand.

    Do I need a visa?

    Tajikistan (the trek) is visa-free for most Europeans, US citizens and Canadians. Brits pay $30 for an e-visa.

    Uzbekistan (sightseeing) is visa-free for most Europeans, Brits and Canadians. E-visa costs $20 for US citizens.

    Can I buy a local SIM card to stay online?

    Yes, there’s a kiosk of a local mobile operator UCELL right at the luggage collection area at both Samarkand and Tashkent international airports. The prices are quite reasonable. However, they won’t work in Tajikistan but the mobile coverage is non-existent on the trek anyway. The guide will be carrying a satellite messenger for emergency use.

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