€980
excl. of flights
ON HOLD.
Strenuous
2-6 participants
-5 to -20 °C on the summit, strong winds
Discounts for couples and groups
Being relatively accessible, Elbrus is a great choice for your first high mountain and a good way to start the Seven Summits quest. The conventional route from the South is the easiest and the safest way to achieve your climbing goal
Instead, we offer a completely different take on reaching the highest summit of Europe: a North-South traverse with ascending the Western summit at 5,642m! The Northern side is much less developed making acclimatisation hikes through serene landscapes truly enjoyable.
Staying in comfortable huts and stationary tents. Groups of no more than 9, with 1 guide per 3 participants.
Any personal gear can be rented. Assistance with the visa, the registration and permits.
Guided town walks give a first-hand account of modern Russia and traditional hospitality of the Caucasus.
Am I fit enough for the climb?
No previous high-altitude experience is required, thanks to a generous 11-days programme. The climb itself is non-technical but we may need to negotiate a few crevasses so a brief course in glacier travel is included.
We meet you at Mineralnye Vody airport (MRV) and drive to a hotel in Pyatigorsk. Then we go for a guided walk around the town centre of this historical spa resort, built during the Tsar times. Unlimited mineral water included!
Drive to Emmanuel Meadow (2,500m). It is a 100Km, 4-hour drive to the base camp. The area is a well-kept grassy meadow by the river, scattered with stationary tents. There is a comfortable canteen, hot shower (included) and even a steam bath (at extra cost).
For the rest of the day, we ramble around the area, breeding our red blood cells. For the more determined, we offer a short hike to the mighty ‘Sultan’ waterfall with some hot mineral springs en-route.
Acclimatisation walk to Stone Mushroom meadow (3,450m). The meadow features dozens of bizarre wind-eroded volcanic outcrops. The picturesque trail weaves above the river, then passes a former WWII Nazi airstrip (a local legend) and finally traverses a lush volcanic plateau, eating the altitude quite quickly. We reach the meadow in about 3 hours, marvel at the scenery, enjoy our packed lunches and descend into the base camp.
Climb to ‘Northern Hut’ high camp (3,760m). Today we carry our stuff to the high camp. It takes about 5 hours and we partially follow our yesterday’s familiar hike.
The camp is located at a rocky outcrop midstream of the glacier and provides a variety of bunkhouse-style accommodation. At this altitude, a hot shower is something to hope for but the canteen is still great.
Introduction course into safe glacier travel (4,000m). On a convenient spot above the hut, we recall the basics of crampon use, self-arrest and safe glacier travel.
Acclimatisation climb to Lenz Rocks (4,650m). There are a few small crevasses to negotiate and the slope is up to 30° steep in places. The ascent normally takes 4-5 hours, followed by 1.5 hours of descent. Most likely we will not have to break the trail. Provided our acclimatisation goes well, it is possible to climb higher to the site of a helicopter crash at 4,820m.
Rest day in the camp before the summit bid.
That’s the day you came for – the ascent of Mount Elbrus (5,642m) West summit. The normal “alpine start” has to be adjusted to the scale of the Caucasus – I prefer to start at 1 or 2 o’clock, sometimes earlier. Sure enough, we always monitor the forecast.
The ascent takes approximately 9-12 hours. The latest turnaround time is 2 PM. Depending on the conditions, the main guide decides which way we descend – the North or the South.
On the South side it is possible to arrange a snowcat down from circa 5,100m, just below “the ramp” (extra fee), in case you get too tired.
Night at 3,700m-3,900m at the famous ‘barrel’ huts or another hut – panoramic views but the shower still to come!
Reserve day that we can use in case of bad weather.
We descend to Baksan Valley using a ski lift and stay in a hotel in a nearby village of Azau. During the day we can shop for souvenirs in the local market, visit mineral springs and enjoy well-deserved traditional cuisine.
Those wishing to view the climb they have just completed from a different perspective can take a chairlift up Cheget mountain. From this vantage point, we take in panoramic views of Elbrus and other mountains of the Great Caucasian Range.
Transfer to Mineralnye Vody airport. Some people decide to stay one extra night in Pyatigorsk, which has to be requested in advance.
Your guides
Anna Drozhzhina, an experienced trek leader and an aspiring mountain/ski guide, a student of Kyrgyzstan Mountain Guides Association (KMGA/IFMGA), now based in Budapest, Hungary. Considerable experience working as a lead guide on Elbrus (over 30 climbs from South, North and West), Kazbek and Kamchatka. Certified first-aider. Speaks English and French.
Andrew Golovachev, an IFMGA aspirant ski guide within the guides’ association of Kyrgyzstan, an avid alpine climber, and devoted adventure photographer.
Ran treks, climbs, ski tours and expeditions to Tajikistan Pamirs, Patagonia, Peru, Morocco, Nepal, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Siberia, Caucasus and Kamchatka. A full member of the British Alpine Club. Professional avalanche education: equivalent of Canadian Avalanche Association Level 1 certificate.
Visited over 40 countries, lived in the UK for four years. Certified first-aider.
Booking terms
Sounds exciting? It truly is! We love the place and would be happy to share it with you. Should you have any questions, please check out our FAQ section below. Alternatively, don’t hesitate to send us your inquiry using the contact form or WhatsApp.
During the COVID-19 pandemic, it is difficult for travellers to commit to a trip in advance. Appreciating that, we have introduced ZERO DEPOSIT to book your place on a trip. You will only be required to make a reduced partial payment of €360 just two months before the trip via bank transfer or Paypal, so we could pre-book the logistics with the local operators. The remaining amount is paid in cash upon arrival.
Cancellation policy
If you need to cancel your trip 60 days or less before departure because you are prevented from travelling due to:
1) a government banning non-essential travel to the destination or imposing a quarantine for vaccinated upon arrival upon return from the destination country, or
2) a national or local lockdown
We will put your deposits in full towards a future trip with us, this year or the next year.
The above does not apply in the following cases:
– You or a family member is diagnosed with Covid and you are required to self-isolate, which prevents you from travelling.
– A close relative is diagnosed with Covid and you are required to care for them.
– You are denied boarding to your flight due to failing Covid checks.
– You are unable to join your trip due to not fully complying with the testing or vaccination requirements to enter the destination country.
We strongly recommend taking out a travel insurance with specific Covid-19 cancellation and curtailment provision which is now available from many reputable providers.
We also promise a 14-day risk-free booking window: you can cancel at any point within two weeks after you put down the first deposit. This buys you time to sort out vacation and flights, to bring in your friends, etc. and not have to worry about someone else taking your spot on the trip.
In case of cancellation of the trip by the participant due to any other personal circumstances any deposits made are NOT refunded. At our sole discretion we may put them towards your future trips with us.
The minimum group size for this trip is 2 participants plus the guide. Should there be less, the trip will be cancelled and all deposits made will be returned in full.
Start Your Journey
Got a question or ready to plan your adventure? Drop us a line using the form below — we’ll reply within 24 hours!
Prefer email? Reach out at hello@primalscapes.com
We promise no spam — just answers. Your info stays safe with us and won’t be shared.
